Wynns Black Label

Wynns likes to promote Black Label as “Australia’s benchmark Cabernet Sauvignon,” but it could also be called Australia’s greatest comfort wine. Year in, year out, it arrives in the glass and the drinker’s high expectations are always met – that’s so comforting. Even in relatively challenging cool, wet years like 2023 there is no denying the Black Label stamp: a deep concentration of ripe black fruit and spices in sync with some pretty smart oak. The ’23 vintage does bring a finer expression of Cabernet, less obvious mint and eucalypt than usual and more gentle florals and light herbals. Blackberry, cassis, black cherry, violet, briar, anise, dried leaf, crushed herbs – fresh and lively – work in harmony with French oak (30% new) to present a fully integrated youngster. Firm, fine tannins, as always, offer a seamless undercurrent, driving the wine long. As for drinking windows? Why not start tonight.

(2025) Black Label was first produced in 1954, and has a reputation for ageing gracefully given its relatively modest price. It spent 15 months in new and seasoned French oak, barrels and vats of various sizes. Firm, floral-touched and refined black fruit on the nose leads on to a palate of youthful intensity and concentration. There's a real white pepper spice to this, and the tannins are grippy and peppery. The fruit is solid and is just beginning to show some more open juiciness, while this very young wine leaves the palate tingling with its precise concentration, acidity and spice. Impressice and with potential to improve in bottle. Price and stockist quoted is for the previous vintage at time of review.