34 Centuries Assyrtiko

Artemis Karamolegos is one of the most dynamic wineries on the unique island of Santorini. Led by his grandfather, who started making wine and cultivating vines as a hobby in the 1950s, Artemis founded the winery in 2004. They own just over 3ha of vineyards (some over 100 years old) across Pyrgos, Megalorchori, Exo Gonia, Akrotiri and Fira, and have long term contracts to farm another 5 hectares. This comes from very old assyrtiko vines (some of the oldest on the island), partially native fermented (10% in oak), where it remains for 8 months on lees. This streaks along the buzzy palate, buoyed with marine salinity, and vibrant with electricity. Green apple, white grapefruit, tight quince, and crystalline lemon are interwoven with salinity, long and taut, finishing with a humming echo of minerality. Such a striking, worthy wine, now and with time ahead.

The Santorini Assyrtiko 34 from Artemis Karamolegos Winery provides a delicious introduction to this classic Greek grape. This is a pure and complex white that will age well, but is a delicious treat even on release. Santorini is the remnant of a volcano that erupted with cataclysmic force some 3500 years ago, leaving a range of recently-formed volcanic rock in its wake. It is difficult to grow grapes here, but the volcanic soils and sparse growing conditions yield wines of considerable power and depth. The 2022 Artemis Karamolegos 34 Assyrtiko offers a bouquet of peach, apple, lemon peel, flowers and spice. The flavors are pure and exciting, with peach, pear, apple and lemon fruit flavors underlain by subtle honey, herb and spice tones. Try it now or over the next five years. 92 Wayne Belding