Borgogno

No Name is basically a Barolo, named as such because the appellation's tasting panel wouldn't allow this nebbiolo from Barolo the DOCG classification back in the mid 2000s. Hence, this wine is well known for being a protest against the Italian appellation system (Etichetta di Protesta = Protest Label). This nebbiolo was native fermented in cement before ageing in large Slavonian oak for 2 years. Fragrant black cherry and violets is scented with scrubby herbs and cracked pepper, and framed with fine, firm tannins. Charmingly rustic, and drinking smartly now, ideally with wild mushroom ragu.

“No Name” began as a tongue-in-cheek protest against the rigid rules of Italian appellation laws, but what is in the bottle is anything but irreverent. This is Nebbiolo at its most charming and accessible: lifted aromas of red cherry, wild raspberry, and delicate rose petal leap from the glass. On the palate, it is lighter-bodied than a classic Barolo, with bright acidity, silky tannins, and a core of juicy red fruit laced with subtle earthy undertones. Vibrant and expressive, this 2021 Nebbiolo is built for early enjoyment alongside a plate of antipasti on a summer evening. It’s a compelling reminder that Nebbiolo doesn’t have to be brooding to be profound. 94 Miranda Franco