L.A. Cetto

Said to be as temperamental as Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo fares surprisingly well in Baja. Most often it is part of a multi-variety blend, but this full-on varietal version from Cetto is very impressive. The vineyard is now 40 years old, and the fruit was harvested in early October. Dark garnet in color, this 2017 offers multi-faceted aromas of anise, spice, and rose petal. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, firm and delivers plenty of solid black cherry and earthy flavors with dried cranberry and light tannin coming through in the finish. Aged 14 months in French oak, it is beautifully balanced and shows some elegance. It drinks well now but can be cellared for a few more years.

This earthy, dark, well-balanced Nebbiolo shares nothing in common with Italy but it's very good by Baja standards. The bouquet of baked black fruits and earth is modern and in good shape. This feels big and dense but structured, with blackberry, pepper and mild raisin and prune flavors on the finish.