Martínez Lacuesta

Aromas of preserved sour cherries, wild berry compote, orange peel, plus balsamic notes and some mushrooms, damp leaves and leather. Elegant on the palate, with ripe acidity, well-integrated tannins and a very long finish.

This bodega in the (rightly) storied village of Haro makes a rather wide range of wines that strike a very appealing balance between traditional and modern styles of Rioja. This Gran Reserva offers a case in point, as it is neither thick and oaky as is the case with more modern “high expression” versions, nor notably thin and dependent upon oxidative maturation to achieve complexity. As it approaches 13 years since the grapes were on the vine, it is in a great developmental stage for current enjoyment, which for me means that it still shows a streak of sweet primary fruit while also showing savory notes from aging. Neither of these key aromatic and flavor elements dominates the other. If the wine showed just a little more palate weight, it would earn an even higher score, but 94 is just right based on the wine’s proportionality and overall appeal. 94 Michael Franz