Penfolds

The fruit here is sourced from Tasmania and maturation is in French oak barriques, 30% of which were new, with a dribble – 1.5% – spending time in Italian cocciopesto amphorae. A crimson/purple hue, there is an initial hint of stemminess, suggesting that the winemakers have incorporated a portion of whole bunches. The nose offers raspberries, truffles, freshly unearthed beetroots, dried herbs, plums, a touch of earth, smoked meats and a pleasing savouriness. A Pinot of weight and density, of length and intensity. This is most impressive with extra weight and complexity, a welcome transformation from the early, albeit very pleasant, incarnations. The wine finishes with abundant tannins and surely has everything in place for the next six to ten years. One of the best Bin 23s to date.

Light carmine-garnet colour, purple touch, broad rim brightening. Delicate caramel, fresh red cherry, wild berry confit, some raspberry pulp, some orange zest, floral touch. Medium body, red berries, fine minerality, elegant and harmonious, already easy to drink.