Penfolds

Cabernet Sauvignon (52%) takes the lead role – just – but this is very much a wine that celebrates two equals. There’s a natural exuberance to 543, a sweet-fruited upfront appeal that is undeniable. Complex and fragrant in ripe blackberry, red berries, liquorice, oolong smoky tea scents, rosemary, dried herbs, toasty cedar, woody spices. The Penfolds oak touch is evident, the mix of new French (40%) and American oak (60%) unmistakable really, lending an impressive sweet, shaved pencil/graphite backdrop to warm-hearted, generous flavours. It comes nicely poised, too, with sage herbals, bay leaf, cassis and spice lending a layer of aromatic brightness. Finishes with more than enough fine-grained and persistent tannins and earthy savouriness to make for one complex, beguiling, long-living wine.

Dark ruby colour, purple reflections, subtle ochre rim. Fresh heart cherry, blackberry confit, some nougat and vanilla, fine herbal savouriness, rather discreet bouquet. Elegant, balanced, cherry flavours again, ripe tannins, harmonious and already well developed, a versatile food companion with further ageing potential, a premiere full of finesse.