Pouilly-Fuissé Vignes de la Côte

Fabien Duperray is a well known wine agent name, representing some of the finest Bourgogne estates, including DRC, Arnaud Ente, and Coche-Dury among others. However, he wanted to try his hand at making amazing wine, not just selling it. In 2007 he purchased gnarly old Gamay vineyards in Fleurie and Moulin-à-Vent (some 140+ years old), and he added some Chardonnay parcels from select Côte Macconais sites in 2014, which he shares with Christophe Thibert. Farming is biodynamic, everything is done by hand (tractor-free), and yields are low. The name of the winery pays homage to Jules Chauvet, the winemaker, scientist, and Beaujolais native who is often credited for launching the natural wine movement. This is a cuvée that includes fruit from all of the south-facing slopes they work in Fuissé. Such a wine. Precise, powerful, with an ample flick of reduction, this streams along a purposeful palate, with green apple, lemon pith and lemon peel, fresh hazelnut, light pastry, through a lingering vibrato saline finish. Quite structural and straight, this is drinking beautifully now, with time ahead.