Clos de la Bergerie

This is an icon Savennières from a laurel-deserving producer. You'll smile when you put your nose in the glass because this wine unconsciously draws that reaction. Ripe, green-and-golden orchard aromas fill the nose and motivate the palate towards peach stone fruit and dried white blossom. Open the bottle the day before drinking to experience the wine at its peak; also decant for the gold star.

I drank a bottle of 2005 Nicolas Joly Savennières Roche Aux Moines Clos de la Berger with friends last night over dinner in Hong Kong, and I was really impressed. I was a great fan of the Joly whites from the 1970s and before. I remember drinking great bottles in Paris in the 1980s when I lived there, but I have not consumed many ever since. And most were oxidized and funky when I did. I know that the biodynamic high priest Nicholas Joly says his wines are ultra pure and alive, but sometimes they are just plain undrinkable. His 2005 Savennieres last night happily was a beautiful bottle. Perhaps it was the combination of food it was served with of potato gnocchi with a creamy walnut sauce? But the wine was delicious with aromas and flavors of dried mangos, pine needles, and pineapple. It started off slightly oxidized but then turned fresh and tangy. It was full and rich, almost oily. What a Chenin Blanc. This is a wine that I hope to meet again very soon.