Taittinger

(2009) Meaning 'dry', Sec Champagnes are actually a little sweeter and richer than Brut, in this case Taittinger's Nocturne has 20g/l of residual sugar - about twice that of a Brut Champagne. There's a really attractive, nettly, yeasty richness on the nose, backed up bruised apple fruit and a hint of minerality. On the palate this has a deeply layered quality, with orange and peach flavours, a cushioning mousse and a quite steely core of cool, apple acidity that does not give away the 20g/l of sugar very obviously. Another really nice and fairly sumptuous style here.

Sweet Champagne is a niche market, but Nocturne has made the jump to nightclubs to stay relevant with a younger set, although ironically, its new classic white label seems more at home in a drawing room than a club setting, but what do we know? Nocturne starts life on the same path as the multi-vintage Brut, a 40/60 chardonnay / pinot noir with pinot meunier, before it aged an extra year on the lees to settle in before release. The dosage is modest for a Sec, at 17.5 g/L, but just right for those looking for a softer, off-dry bubble to sip on. We like the crisper mid-palate that lends enough balance to keep it from cloying. A good one for beginners.