Valentin Leflaive

If Leflaive sounds familiar, you're certainly correct, as the family has been growing and making wine in nearby Puligny-Montrachet since 1580. Olivier Leflaive began this new project in Champagne, named for his young son Valentin, in 2015. The CV refers to the GC of Cramant (21%) and the 1er Cru of Vertus (52%), from base year 2018 (the label's 18) and 56%(!) reserve wines. The 40ish year old vines were fermented in stainless, and my bottle was disgorged in March 2023 with 3 g/L (the 3.0) on the label. Almond patisserie, lemon curd, and green apple lead to a meringue core, and carry through a bitter pithy lemon lattice bracketing the chalky finish. As with all there wines, there is a lovely completeness to the whole, with nothing elbowing out, and a mellow meringue to centre. Super smart, and absolutely a producer to note.

This is a beautifully textured wine, a collaboration between Olivier Leflaive of Burgundy and Erick de Sousa of Champagne. Balancing dryness against ripe fruit and with acidity shining through the mineral texture, the wine is taut and tense while also ready to drink.