B Vintners Liberté

Smoke and a touch of liquorice blend in with black cherry notes on the nose. Subtle anise and pepper shine through. The palate is taught and structured without being heavy. The tannins are silky and there is lovely translucency and depth. Evolution lends a kind of iodine meatiness, an earthy, visceral almost bloody aspect but in essence this is taut, aromatic and supremely elegant. Fine freshness pervades all and lends gorgeous, silky length.

B. Vintners is a collaboration between winemaker Bruwer Raats, whose family was amongst the first Dutch settlers, and his cousin Gavin, also a winemaker in his own right. The Raats family has always been based in Stellenbosch, and this familial project came together to spotlight Stelly's special vineyards through minimal intervention winemaking. Liberté is old vine pinotage on decomposed granite soils at altitude, located near the ocean in Bottelary Hills. If more pinotage was treated like this, the poor grape wouldn't have such a bad rep. An earlier pick, native ferment, 20% whole bunch and around a year in oak (a touch new) provides firm, fine bones and lightly sticky tannins, while Stelly's inherent sunshine makes for a great natural cushion of cherry leather, sapid raspberry, red liquorice, scrubby fynbos, and tight, nimble spicing. A beauty, especially with a slight chill.