Xarel-lo

Aromas of preserved lemons, popcorn and subtle herbs. The palate is ample and medium- to full-bodied, showing richness, good concentration and a gentle phenolic texture. A lovely saline thread throughout. From organically grown grapes. Drink now.

Can Sumoi is a relatively new, still wine project from the famed Raventós i Blanc sparkling wine producer, which dates its origins to 1497. Pepe Raventós, who currently leads the family-owned domain, insists that Xarel-lo is the world’s best white wine grape, surpassing Riesling or even Chardonnay. After tasting his rendition, it is hard to argue. No doubt part of the wine’s appeal comes from Raventós’ compulsion for quality—and 80-year-old vines. The 2023 combines an alluring herbal nose, a subtle dose of minerality, and a creamy texture. Invigorating acidity balances its depth and keeps the wine fresh. A delightful hint of bitterness in the finish reminds us that this is no ordinary white, but rather one that will likely evolve nicely with bottle age. That said, it is hard to resist this beauty now, especially if paired with flavor-packed seafood dishes like grilled swordfish. 93 Michael Apstein