Chablis

Combine William Fèvre, one of the top producers in Chablis, with an excellent vintage for that region and you get a terrific village wine. William Fèvre owns a staggering 200 acres of vineyards in Chablis, just under half of which carry either 1er Cru or Grand Cru designations, which leaves them a lot of choice for what they bottle under the village appellation. This is a delightful village Chablis that reminds us not to shun village Burgundies, especially from star producers. An apparent and beguiling flinty minerality announces “Chablis” while riveting acidity keeps it taut and focused. Drink now with oysters, of course, but it would be a good choice for most anything from the sea. Note that they release another “village” Chablis that includes purchased fruit, whereas this “Domaine William Fèvre” includes only their own grapes. It is a little more expensive, but always the better and more complete of the two releases. 91 Michael Apstein

(2024) Quite old vines here, and around 10% barrel fermentation for a Chablis that is restrained and perhaps lacks just a bit of the zing and kimmeridgean freshness of the best. But it is elegantly proportioned, showing cool but rounded fruitiness and a suggestion of summer blossom on the nose, then a creamy palate that just hints at salinity in the finish. Drinks well, and although there are no fireworks here, it is a fine village level wine.