Chateau D'Esclans

Light salmon pink, silver reflections. Delicate nuances of white peach, a hint of ringlets, fine raspberry pulp, with candied orange zest in the background. Powerful, delicate caramel, subtle wood nuances, yellow fruit on the finish, salty aftertaste, complex food wine.

(2024) The massively popular Whispering Angel from Cave d'Esclans is a global phenomenon, but it is just one of several premium rosés made by this Provence-based producer. Majority owned by LVMH, the range includes both estate wines and wines made from fruit sourced from local growers. Though their £100 per bottle Garrus is a game-changer for the rosé sector (latest vintage to be reviewed soon), I always think this, the first of the range made from estate-grown fruit, is where Esclans moves into more serious fine wine territory. The Château d’Esclans is a blend of Grenache and Rolle, fermented in a combination of steel and 600-litre oak barrels. Pale and peachy pink, the creaminess and very gentle sheen of oatmeal from the barrels adds a luxurious touch to the pert stone fruit and hint of redcurrant. The palate too has texture and creamy weight, and while filled with supple and smooth fruit, there's a bit of grip here and no shortage of balancing acidity. It's a rosé that doesn't want to be over-chilled, and will match mildly spicy foods as well as salmon or trout. Note that at time of writing, North & South Wines has this on sale by the six-bottle case, bring the per bottle equivalent close to £30.