Dog Point

A towering wine deeply rich in flavour that sends an important message about the grape. Don’t ever write Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc off just some “bungee jump into a gooseberry bush” – as famously described by one wine writer – it can be so, so much more. For starters, Section 94 is sourced off a single organic vineyard, fermented in seasoned French oak and is undoubtedly higher in alcohol (14% ABV) than most and comes with more bottle age than most. Mid gold hues. A deep, rich scent filled with jasmine, apple blossom, notes of asparagus, wild herbs and ginger. There is an equally deep flavour, quite idiosyncratic and intense. In part, it has to do with the ripeness of the fruit that moves into peach and nectarine with preserved lemon savouriness. It rolls and rolls over the tongue, almost syrupy in texture, with an added wildness of herbs, ginger and citrus. Finishes on a note of lemon pastille. Riveting stuff.

From a single vineyard and aged in old French oak, this wine—always one of New Zealand's most distinctive Sauvignon Blancs—opens with intensely reductive, sulfuric aromas of struck match, grilled nuts over a smoky fire and buttered toast. The fruit comes on the second beat, with whiffs of baked lemon and passion fruit. Then, on the palate, it all seems to coalesce, with bright acidity, a rich, creamy texture and concentrated flavors pulsing to a very long finish. A love-it-or-hate-it style, but a well-made drop in any case.