Godello

Although white wine from the north-west corner of Spain is dominated by Albariño in the minds of most casual wine lovers, Godello can be every bit as interesting and delicious — or even more so. This wine provides a case in point, and also shows that the D.O. of Valdeorras is not the only region that can make superb renditions of the variety. Unlike many upstart producers outside of Valdeorras, the fruit source for this is a 60-year-old vineyard in Bierzo, which certainly contributes to its exceptional quality. Godello is often medium-bodied and leaning toward full (as in this bottling from Luna Beberide), with very satisfying richness on the palate and an almost creamy texture. Thankfully, the wine’s acidity is up to the task of keeping the wine fresh rather than ponderous or heavy, and it finishes with clarity despite an enduring sense of ripeness. The fruit recalls ripe pears and baked apples, with an underlying streak of saline minerality that contributes very significantly to the wine’s layered character and complexity. For those who don’t know good Godello, the closest wine as a point of comparison might be excellent Pinot Bianco from Alto Adige in Italy (though I grant that that comparison may not be very helpful because top bottlings of Pinot Bianco are barely any better known than Godello). So, please take my word on this: it is difficult to image anyone who would not enjoy this wine. It is very pleasant to sip on its own, but it would also pair very well with almost any fish preparation as well as richer shellfish dishes based on crab or lobster, and could easily do well with a roast chicken for those who prefer white wine with that staple main course. If my score is off at all, I missed on the low side. 93 Michael Franz

Sourced from old vine Godello set on clay and slate, this opens with salted nectarine and pear notes alongside cashew nut on the nose. The wine is salty and savory with a smooth mouthfeel and gobs of minerality. Finishing clean with melon fruits and salty minerals, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2025-2033-