The FMC

(2025) Just bottled, so un-labelled and not released at time of tasting, this promises to be a cracking vintage of the always lovely FMC Chenin. It is now in the UK at around £40 per bottle. The creaminess of French oak, about 50% new, is apparent in a wine aged for a year in barrel on the lees. The fruit is pristine, already hinting at honey, with ripe and juicy yellow apple and a hint of apricot. One of the world's great Chenins.

Though France’s Loire Valley is considered the birthplace and home of Chenin Blanc, South Africa has twice as much planted and indeed, is that country’s signature white wine. Shawn Mathyse, their masterful winemaker, bottles several different ones depending on the source of the grapes. This one, from a single site in Stellenbosch whose vines dates mostly from 1974, is their flagship. They are uber compulsive in harvesting, passing through the vineyard numerous times — once 19 times — to capture only the grapes they want to achieve balance. The FMC manifests a harmony of delicate fruitiness coupled with a crisp and cutting edginess. Subtley fruity, yet dry, this crunchy expression of Chenin displays excellent depth. This seamless complexity explains why Chenin Blanc reigns in South Africa. Since Ken Forrester was a restaurateur, his focus is food-friendly wines. This vibrant one would be ideal this summer with sushi or with the plethora of flavors found at an omakase meal. 95 Michael Apstein