Mandilari

(2021) Another from the excellent Lyrarakis, this one 100% Mandilari with 11% of the grapes sun-dried before fermentation, and ageing 12 months in new and used 225-litre barrels, 47% American and 53% French oak. Almost black in colour, the nose has fragrant spicy oak and a violet touch, something quite gamy and wild in there too, scents of the Cretan garrigue perhaps? In the mouth a big, enveloping style, with copious fruit but medium-bodied, fine, dry tannins and really juicy acidity complementing and giving this cut and energy. Terrific.

Mushroom, cedar and smoke on the nose leads this Mandilari from Crete. Often used as a blending grape, here it offers approachable aromas of jasmine, anise and cocoa with flavors of berry, plum and spice. The wine has good structure and balance, and can age for several years.