Pascal Agrapart

Lemon curd, citron peel, lemon caviar, chalk cliffs in Normandy on a sunny day, the bouquet is cold, but retains a definite cheerfulness. The palate is straight and slender, like a Romanesque cathedral with buttresses stretching skyward. The wine is full of energy, with aromas of lemon, mint and ripe fruit. A highly intellectual wine that demands attention.

Founded in 1894, Agrapart has rightfully emerged as one of the finest grower estates in the Côte des Blancs. Pascal Agrapart is the current generation overseeing the estate, making wines since 1984 when he took over from his father, Pierre, and after studying oenology in Bordeaux, and Avize. When he arrived, there were 4 hectares of vines, and he has grown that to 12 hectares, 9 of those rooted in grand cru villages of Avize, Cramant, Oiry and Oger. His father never used herbicides or chemical pesticides, and while Pascal is uninterested in being labelled organic or biodynamic, he follows the same naturalist practices, focusing on the soils. Though not listed on the front, Minéral is a single vintage (check the back label) from two Avize parcels rooted in very chalky soils, and vines 50-60+ years. One vinification is done in old 600L barrels, and the other in tank before a 50/50 blend. This spent 5 years on lees, and was dosed with 3 g/L in May 2023. White blossoms, lemon pith and peel floats across a deep bed of crushed stones and chalk, while a spire of lemon acidity sails this long across the palate. Delicate, yet with a firm presence, this tight and buzzy 2017 is showing beautifully now, but still has time ahead.