Pascal Jolivet

The Pascal Jolivet domaine owns over 120 acres of vineyards spread across the appellations of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. Attitude is from a single 57-acre estate located to the west of Sancerre in Touraine, and covers two distinct terroirs: Chémery, with limestone soils, and Anger sur Cher, with sandy soils. Wild yeast fermented, this carries greengage, tinned asparagus, shale and lemon thistle, lined with a cushion of herbal lees, and seasoned with white pepper. Low yields (for a VdP) has aided concentration, and buzzy minerality on the finish.

With its heavy bottle and designer label and name, this must qualify as the most expensive looking vin de pays from the Loire. Somehow the wine, while a pleasant, ripe Sauvignon, doesn't live up to the package. But the price is fine, so enjoy a lively, lightly toasty but still fresh green-fruited wine.