Pugnitello da San Felice

San Felice helped revive this ancient grape, sometimes mistaken for Montepulciano, in its restoration vineyard of historic vines, thus encouraging its current mini-surge in popularity. The wine provides less emphasis on fruitiness – basically dark and dried – than it does on its delightful prickly, savory notes, and its structure is sound. But because of the grape’s tight bunches, which encourage rot, don’t expect to see lots of wine made from it. 91 Roger Morris

The nose starts gently floral, with aromas of vanilla, cherry and roses, then turns warm and savory with notes of soil, balsamic, coffee and tar. On the palate, a smear of raspberry underscores the cherry element, with dark chocolate and coffee for balance. Simultaneously friendly, warm and refined.