Soldera

(2019) This wine spent 70 months in barrel, and is 100% Sangiovese Grosso. Fabulous blood-streaked nose, chestnut and game, spices and just very soulful. Smooth as silk on the palate there are notes of leather and tobacco, beautifully ripe and creamy sweet fruit, the tang of cherry, but it's the direct focus and purity, a touch of orangey juiciness. From quite a difficult vintage according to Mauro. Offered in bond in cases of six, price quoted is per bottle, duty paid, equivalent.

It's safe to say that Gianfranco Soldera's style is only appreciated and understood by Brunello purists. The wines are as thorny and complex as the argumentative, cantankerous man who makes them. For one, this wine has big volatility but the magic here is that those pungent direct aromas translate into bright aromatic vibrancy and buoyancy. In fact, its intensity and the careful balance between acidity and structure is unmatched.