Tenute Lunelli

The DOCG of Montefalco Sagrantino has a well-deserved reputation for producing robust red wines replete with tannins and alcohol. What immediately stands out in Lunelli’s youthful 2021 Carapace and grabs your attention is its suave tannins and texture. Lunelli’s winemaker, Luca Capaldini, quips, “grapes that grow in the darkness hold onto tannins,” so they remove leaves during the growing season to let the grapes see the sun. In the cellar, Capaldini and his team taste frequently to assess the quality of the tannins. When the tannins are just starting to be bitter, they press the grapes to separate the liquid from the skins and seeds. To be sure, Lunelli’s 2021 Carapace is a young wine, but amazingly fresh and balanced despite its 15 percent stated alcohol. Capaldini explains that the bright, uplifting quality comes from Sagrantino planted in a cooler, north facing vineyard. The barest hint of attractive bitterness in the finish balances the dark fruit character and reinforces the stature of this youthful wine. Given its balance, the 2021 Carapace should evolve and develop beautifully over the next decade, but frankly, it would be a welcome addition to a hearty stew when there is snow on the ground in the coming winter. 93 Michael Apstein

Bright ruby red. Initially somewhat yeasty on the nose, opens up after a little time in the glass to notes of precious wood, graphite and a subtle hint of dried goji berries. Certain juiciness on the palate, but appears tough and hard overall.