Vecchie Terre Di Montefili

This bottle is a masterclass in high-altitude, unmanipulated Sangiovese. Perched on a high, rocky crest of galestro in Panzano, Montefili completely ignores the modern temptation to soften or fatten up Chianti Classico. There is no Merlot makeup, no heavy oak blanket—just pure, chiseled rock and razor-sharp fruit. The nose skips the sweet cherry cliches entirely, leading instead with a deeply savory, high-toned blast of crushed iron, wild rosemary, and a remarkably bright, sharp hit of blood orange peel. It smells cool, vertical, and entirely bound to the stone. On the palate, the wine vibrates with an absolute jolt of nervous energy. It refuses to slouch or spread out across the mid-palate; instead, it drives straight up and down with a piercing, electric line of acidity and a mouthwatering saline snap. The tannins are traditionally gritty and demanding, creating a tight, architectural frame that completely cleanses the palate. This isn't a soft, comforting red to sip on the couch. It is a tense, bone-dry, highly intellectual wine that commands a piece of charred meat and absolute attention.

Dense and brawny, this darkly hued red initially opens with aromas suggesting nail polish that blow off after a few minutes to reveal blue flower and stewed prune. The palate is savory and concentrated but fresher than the nose, offering ripe plum, fleshy black cherry and licorice alongside velvety, chewy tannins and the warmth of alcohol. Drink through 2024. Kerin O’Keefe