Villa Wolf

It is no secret than Ernst Loosen makes great Riesling. I tasted this, the first German Pinot Noir—I presume he labels it Pinot Noir instead of the German, Spätburgunder, for marketing reasons—of his I have had, side-by-side with a Bourgogne Rouge from his new project in Burgundy. What a difference site makes from him. With bright, crunchy red fruity notes, this bargain priced Pinot Noir has more than you would expect at the price. Fruitier and less precise than his Bourgogne Rouge, a hint of leafy character adds to its appeal. 88 Michael Apstein

This German pinot – and, yes, it's labelled pinot noir, not spätburgunder – comes from the Pfalz, just north of Alsace. Ernst Loosen has a way with crafting delicious, affordable wines, and the Villa Wolf label is no exception. This shows good varietal character, which isn't always the case for pinots under $20, with a combination of crunchy red cherry, spices, and underbrush, plus some smoky, meaty notes for good measure. Medium-bodied, round, and supple, this is a solid pour for a cold winter weekday night alongside herb-roasted chicken.