Eisenstone Hoffmann

Makes a big statement not only about the quality of Shiraz off 70+ year-old vines sourced from the Hoffmann Dimchurch Vineyard, but the quality of Stephen Cook’s winemaking. Rich, ripe and flavoursome but beautifully controlled and measured by the winemaker. Brings an enticing set of spice and savoury characters to the glass across red plum, black cherry, cassis, black woodsy spices, star anise and sage. Middle palate richness is explored but it remains essentially medium-bodied and finely expressed with a light savouriness that echoes cured meats, leather and earth. A core of fine tannins does the wine proud.

Archetypal Barossan. A ‘take no prisoners’ sort of wine that is inimitably of place and to be applauded. Full-weighted, loamy and dense. Molten black rock, kirsch, malt, mint, licorice strap, leather varnish, clove and beef drippings. This is what the southern French call 'surmaturite' and when it is done well, it adds a hedonistic richness to a wine, underlain by uncanny freshness. As is the case here. A big wine boasting a wealth of complexity: chiselled mineral bite, an almost sooty pixelated feel to the tannins and sumptuous density to the fruit. In all, paradoxically light on its feet, despite the salacious fruit and palpable oaky edges, taking their time to nestle. Drinkable now, but best from 2026. Screw cap.